Peru is a very easy country to backpack, especially for beginner backpackers and travelers. I spent one month in Peru in June 2022 which is the off season because it is winter but it makes it easier to get tickets to Machu Picchu. The bus system in Peru is also very simple to navigate and efficient. Over a month, I flew into Lima, and visited Paracas, Arequipa, Cusco, and the Sacred Valley.
Most people doing the backpacking route will either fly into Lima or bus down from Ecuador through Cuenca to Mancora, a beach town in the north of Peru. Some places that I missed that I would’ve wanted to see are Lake Titicaca, Iquitos for the Amazon, Huarez, Nazca, and you can cross into Bolivia.
There is also a company called PeruHop where you can book a backpacking route through them and travel solo with buses and routes with the company. If you’re backpacking for the first time, you might feel more comfortable choosing this but I personally don’t think it’s necessary.
Peru quickly became my favorite country in South America because of the different landscapes, history, and food (!!!). Peruvian cuisine is probably some of my favorite in the world, especially because they have Chinese and Japanese influence. Always ask for the menu del dia and try all the pisco sour happy hours!
Alright, let’s get started, beginning the journey with Lima!
Fly into Lima
There isn’t much to do in Lima but it is known to be the “Paris” of South America. It is also the biggest city in Peru so everyone will fly into Lima. The food scene in Lima is amazing with amazing street food and some of the best restaurants in the world. 
Where to stay: Pariwana Hostel
Highlights:
- Walking tour around Lima
- Boat tour to Islas Palomino to swim with sea lions
- Parque de Amor: a really cute park near the beach
- Aguas Park for the light show at night
- Explore Mercado Central
- Barrio China or Chinatown
Where to eat:
*There are so many food options in Lima that you really can’t go wrong. 
- Mercado Central: Ask for the menu del dia from any of the food stands for local Peruvian cuisine.
- Astrid y Gaston: One of the best restaurants in the world. I did their tasting menu and it was amazing. (reservation needed)
- Central: Another restaurant that is consistently one of the best in the world. (reservation needed)
- Madam Tusan: pretty good Dim Sum, I had low expectations since Dim Sum in Peru?? But it was good!
- Panchita: Super popular Peruvian restaurant with fusion options.
- Siete Sopas: It’s soup and great drunk food and super popular with Peruvians.
- Picarones Mary: Picarones are like churros and it was featured on Netflix’s Street Foods.
- Maido: Another world famous restaurant. You need a reservation here.
Bus to Huacachina
Huacachina is a beautiful oasis in the desert. It’s about a 4 hour bus ride from Lima to Ica and then taxi for 15 minutes to get to Huacachina. It should be about 15 soles for the taxi. I always booked buses through Cruz del Sur because the quality is so nice. The seats recline, there’s TVs, A/C, and sometimes WIFI. There isn’t a ton to do in Huacachina so I would recommend staying 1-2 days. 
Where to stay: Wild Rover Hostel
Warning: Wild Rover is a party hostel and you most likely won’t get much sleep if you stay there which is why I only recommend it for 1-2 (but it is fun) and they have a pool. You can also stay at Bananas Hostel which is more chill.
Highlights:
- Sandboarding/sandskiing and go on a dune buggy ride. This is the main highlight in Huacachina.
- Walk up the sand dunes for sunset.
- Party at Wild Rover
Where to eat (Huacachina is definitely not a foodie spot but that’s okay):
- Wild Olive: pretty good pizza and pasta, it’ll do after a day of sandboarding/bodyboarding.
- Jaku Coffee: Actually really good coffee and smoothies and paninis. Will cure your hangover.
Bus to Paracas
Paracas is a beach town around 3 hours away from Lima by bus and 1 hour from Huacachina. I always booked buses through Cruz del Sur because the quality is so nice. The seats recline, there’s tvs, A/C, and sometimes wifi. Sadly I went in the off season and winter so I couldn’t do a lot of the activities since the wind was too strong. 
Where to stay: Kokopelli Hostel
Kokopelli is right on the beach and has great vibes, a pool, ping pong table, and lots of space to hang out.
Highlights:
- ATV tour to the Reserva Nacional de Paracas for sunset: Make sure the wind isn’t too strong or else you can’t go!
- Yakupark: It’s like a ninja warrior type obstacle course in the water. Super hard but so fun.
- Islas Ballestas: Take a boat tour to an island off of Paracas where you can see penguins!
Where to eat:
- Destinos Restaurant: Good seafood and Peruvian food. The ceviche and seafood in Paracas is amazing.
- Misk’i: Delicious pizza. It’s super small but family owned and cute.
Overnight bus to Arequipa
Arequipa is a beautiful colonial town near Colca Canyon. I took an overnight bus there from Paracas (around 12 hours) through Cruz del Sur (again). It feels like a very low-key and chill city. I stayed for 4 nights. It IS a foodie city though! Most people also bus to Lake Titicaca from Arequipa if you’re visiting. 
Where to stay: Flying Dog Hostel
I booked my Colca Canyon tour through the hostel and they have a great kitchen and hang out couches. They also offer lots of activities! It also gets pretty cold at night so I’d bring layers. 
Highlights:
- Colca Canyon: See the Peruvian condors which you can trek for 2 days or take a day trip. I took a day trip because the trek sounded very hard. Booked through the hostel. You can also see the other mountains.
- Walk around the main square. The city itself is beautiful.
- Trek Volcano Misti (I didn’t do this but it’s also very popular if you want a challenge!)
- Explore Mercado San Camilo: I love exploring a new market in every city I visit.
Where to eat:
- Espacio Lagom: for Asian fusion
- Kao Thai: for amazing Thai and Peruvian Food
- Chica por Gaston Acurio: Peruvian food
- Los Chupes Arequipenos: Good, cheap menu del dia
Overnight bus from Arequipa to Cusco
Cusco is the main city people visit/stay at in Peru because of Machu Picchu, the sacred valley, and other hikes that are famous. I took an overnight bus from Arequipa to Cusco with Cruz del Sur. Cusco is pretty touristy but there’s a day tour to pretty much everywhere for around $25 including meals besides to Machu Picchu. If it’s high season and if you don’t have much time, you should get your Machu Picchu tickets ahead of time. Otherwise, you can buy them in person. 
Where to stay: Kokopelli Hostel
Kokopelli is fantastic and very centrally located. They have coca tea for altitude and they let you store your bags there while you’re trekking. 
Highlights:
- Trek Machu Picchu. I did the 4 day Salkantay Trek which I have a blog post about.
- Hike Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca). It’s very famous and you can take a day tour.
- Hike Siete Lagunas at Ausangate which is the second highest peak in Peru and you see 7 lagoons. It’s a very fun day trip and a great adventure.
- Sacred Valley day tour or stay in Pisac for a day and explore the Sacred Valley.
- Visit the salt flats.
- Go out at Inka Team or Changos. The nightlife in Cusco is so fun!
- Go shopping for an alpaca sweater. The sweaters here are so comfy and everyone will be wearing them.
Where to eat: (Cusco is one of my favorite cities as a foodie)
- Greenpoint: One of the best vegan restaurants I’ve ever been to (and I’m not even vegan!)
- Mercado San Blas: Amazing breakfasts, juices, and vegan options
- Jack’s Cafe: Super filling sandwiches, and delicious breakfasts
- La Osteria: Some of the best handmade pasta I’ve ever had
- Organika: Delicious vegan menu del dias
- San Pedro Mercado: More peruvian food and cheap menu del dias
- La Bo’M: Incredible crepes
- Cafe Dwasi: The best key lime pie I’ve ever had
After Cusco, many people will go to the Amazon or Bolivia or a new country or head home, but after you’ve visited all of these places, I think you can fully say you’ve “seen” Peru.
I hope you enjoyed all of my recommendations and have the best time in Peru! Feel free to reach out to me on Instagram or Tiktok for questions!
